Winemaker's Archives -- George TroquatoTerroirWhile there is no real definition of the word "terroir" (even in French), its effects are well known around the wine world. Matt Kramer of the Wine Spectator calls it "somewhereness"; Spain's Miguel Torres is a firm believer in it; Dr. Ernst Loosen of Germany's Bernkastel refers to his Mosels as "soil-driven wines"; Napa grape grower Andy Beckstoffer says it means "expressing the soils". Others call it "regional typicity". ![]() Winemaker George Troquato Often used to describe merely the influence of soil on wine quality, terroir actually encompasses all the ecological factors that affect the color, aroma, flavor, body and structure of wine: geology, climate, topography, exposure and vintage. Therefore, terroir may be defined as the distinct combination of growing conditions existing in a single vineyard or grape-growing region that imparts unique characteristics to the resulting wines. Terroir is somewhat of a controversial subject. Some purists argue that micromanaging yield, ripening, extraction, oak regimes, filtration or other factors undermines the effect of terroir. "If we wish to control all of the variables in winemaking, we cannot make a wine that expresses terroir," said one outspoken winemaker. One thing is for sure - human intervention is a necessary part of the winegrowing process. Vines need to be properly maintained, and cellar practices held at the highest standards to insure the development of sound wines. ![]() Vineyard & Estate Manager Ron Mosley Estate and Vineyard Manager Ron Mosley makes every effort to harmonize with the naturally existing ecosystem of the Cinnabar estate. His extensive use of non-till farming promotes exceptional vine balance so that the property's singular climate and soils are evident in the small, flavorful grapes. Winemaker George Troquato follows suit with a meddle-free approach that allows the wines to express their unique origin in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Source: Vineyard & Winery Management |