Winemaker's Archives -- George Troquato

Working the Vineyards by Hand

Most modern-day vineyards have gradually turned to mechanization, but the vineyard workers persevere as the backbone of the grape growing industry. This is most prevalent at mountain plantings where heavy equipment is impractical or unsafe. We track their seasonal tasks through our Santa Cruz Mountains vineyards following the autumnal equinox. The time references are subject to variations in grape variety, vintage and location.

Starting in October and continuing through April, vineyard crews engage in measures that regulate runoff. Water bars and berms are installed; ditches are cut or cleared; straw is spread on banks prone to erosion; roads are cleared of landslides.

Pruning begins in January and lasts through early March while vines are dormant. One worker can trim about one half acre per day. Pruning wounds are promptly painted with fungicide to prevent vine disease. This is also the time of year to repair damaged trellising (posts and wires).

Heralding a new vintage, budbreak typically occurs the third week of March. The infant shoots grow quickly and reach 10 inches by early April. Unwanted ones are thinned to add spacing and improve vine balance.

April also marks the beginning of gopher trapping. These rodents may undermine soils and roots anytime during the growing season. Additionally, the adjustable canopy wires are raised to guide shoots upward near month's end. They are elevated two more times in May as shoots lengthen.

Drip irrigation is initiated in May and is repeated every two-to-three weeks. The first watering is the most labor intensive as the line ends are removed to flush the system.

July is a busy month in the vineyard. Clusters are thinned for the first time, restricting vines to two clusters per shoot. Furthermore, about half the leaves in the fruit zone are removed (leafing) to expose clusters to a limited amount of direct sunlight.

Another practice, hedging, is also performed in July. Ideally, a balanced vine will produce shoots that extend 12 inches above the top catch wire. Those surpassing this length are trimmed. This measure decreases shading and helps maintain a uniform canopy.

A second cluster thinning is carried out near the end of the month at 90% of veraison (when a majority of clusters turn color). All green clusters are eliminated to promote even ripeness.

The first sugar sampling is taken near the end of August. The process is repeated more frequently as harvest approaches. Selecting a representative portion of the crop for analysis, workers pick 15 pounds of full clusters per sampling.

The seasonal work cycle is completed with hand harvesting in September and October. Often taken for granted by outsiders, the workers' contribution to the wine industry is enormous. Rain or shine, sweltering or frigid, they toil long hours under tough conditions to put wine on our tables. We thank them!